Transgender 101

Your humble host got his start in tailoring due to being a transgender chap. I wanted to write a quick post for anyone who hasn't come across trans people before with some of the basics, just to help people learn a bit more generally, and also where I'm coming from as a maker and designer.

I enjoy educating and answering questions, as this is a pretty unusual life experience! If you have any questions, please leave them as a comment - and I'll come back periodically and answer them in a post.

I'm not trans - should I follow your blog?

Yes, friend! If you like it. I make menswear and womenswear for my body, mostly historic. Any womenswear topics will be pretty universal; any topics on fitting menswear will not apply to cisgender men, but research and technique posts will.

Bottom line: my relationship with my body and gender informs what I'm making and why; but 9/10 is not the focus of what I write. If you like my posts, you are welcome here :)

What is transgender?

Transgender people are a different gender than the one they were assigned by doctors at birth, and raised in by their parents. They are born with gender dysphoria - on which more below - a neurological condition which causes intolerable distress with their body and social role. Generally, most transgender people hope to transition and live in the gender which makes them most comfortable and matches their inner self-image.

What kinds of transgender people are out there?

Trans men are men who were born with female-typical bodies, were raised as female, and who are making changes to live their life as men. Some people also use the term FtM - female to male - although I don't personally like it. If you ask me, I did not start as female - I started in your perception I was female - and I don't like how prominent that big letter F is.

Trans women are women who were born with male-typical bodies, were raised as male, and who are making changes to live their life as women. Some people also use the term MtF - male to female.

(It's generally preferred to describe trans people as "trans men" with a space - like you would say "blonde man" or "Black man" or "short man" - rather than "transmen", which rather implies you're a weird sort of new species.)

Some transgender people are non binary - on which more below. Non binary people don't identify as male or female, but may still take steps to change their bodies or how they are treated in society in ways which match their gender.

Sometimes we use terms like afab/cafab/dfab/faab or amab/camab/dmab/maab. These refer to what gender you were "assigned at birth". Using "afab" is a much politer and kinder way of saying that a trans man has a "woman's body", and it's also more accurate as transition changes your body quite a bit. It's also useful to group together trans people with similar life experiences. For example, people who were "assigned male at birth" tend to have a far tougher time of it - whether they are female, non-binary, or even cisgender men who enjoy cross-dressing or being feminine, they are likely to share some experiences of oppression.

What is cisgender?

The word "cisgender" means anyone:
  • who does not experience gender dysphoria
  • who is not transgender
  • who broadly identifies with the gender they were assigned by doctors at birth, and raised in by their parents
It's a non-stigmatising alternative to using a word like "normal"; the equivalent of being straight or heterosexual. Just as everyone has a sexual orientation, everyone has a gender identity - and for most people, it's the identity which matches their body. 

(There are many people who also blur the line between being cis and trans - such as many butch lesbians, feminine gay men, drag queens, and people who have partially transitioned then detransitioned to live as their birth gender again. These folks aren't really transitioning or identifying as another gender but who are targeted for being gender-nonconforming, and who often feel a really deep connection to their gender presentation - it's more than just a choice of clothes. Even though these people aren't facing the same lifelong struggle to access appropriate medical care and respect that trans people do, they are often our siblings when it comes to street violence, harassment from employers and family, and so on. 

Some women also reject the term cisgender politically: they see "woman" as an oppressed social category they were forced into by reason of birth, a category they reject and do not identify with, and yet one they also recognise as a group they are a part of. As an analogy: you might imagine someone born into slavery who rejected the idea that they were happy about being a slave, or inherently fit to be a slave - and yet identified themself as an enslaved person when they wrote books, went on protests or accessed support about being a slavery survivor. I have some sympathy for these folks, but at the same time am confused by what words are better to use for them - I would like to respect their preferences, and yet they are certainly not transgender either.) 

Who isn't transgender?

"That stereotype about transsexuals being all wild and criminal and bold and outside the norm and, like, engendering in the townsfolk the courage to break free from the smothering constraints of conformity? That stereotype is about drag queens. Maria is transsexual and she is so meek she might disappear." - Nevada, Imogen Binnie
A lot of ideas about transgender people are actually based off drag queens or transvestites.

Drag queens and transvestites are men who enjoy dressing up as women - for fun, for pleasure, for work, or even for self-exploration. Once the wig comes off, however, they live as men, like being men, and don't take steps to make their body more feminine or live full time as women. They usually have a lot of fun developing a female persona who is outrageous, incredibly glamorous, or allow the performer to express part of their personality.

In contrast, trans women are just - average women, who happen to have been born with a "male-typical" body. They really don't want to draw attention to that, the same way you don't want people to notice your hip rolls or bald patches. Trans women just wear clothes the way everyone else wears clothes - smart casual at work, something dressy for a night out. Trans women look like your mum, not like Ru Paul contestants. Unlike drag queens, trans women generally aren't seeking to shock, entertain, be flamboyant or experimental, make you question gender - they're just trying to go to the store for groceries and then go home and work on their digital art, preferably without being harassed in the street.

There are rare exceptions to both of these rules - some trans women start as drag queens or work as drag performers; some like to dress in a more challenging or gender-ambiguous way; and some drag queens do have work done. But as the quote says - trans people go through so much destructive and frightening stuff by the time they are able to transition, they are generally "so meek they might disappear" and just hoping to get on with life without being hassled.

Some people are born with an intersex condition. These are a number of different genetic conditions which lead people to be born with a combination of male and female characteristics. Intersex people are usually raised as either male or female, and many are victims of surgery at birth to make them look more "normal". In later life, some intersex people may feel their parents guessed the wrong gender at birth and take steps to live as a different gender - either male, female or a non binary gender.

Most trans people are not intersex. And most intersex people do not see themselves as transgender. But some do; and more broadly, they share some problems related to how restrictive society's rules about gender are, how falling outside of those lines is punished, and how vital it is to let people make their own choices about their body. But generally, trans and intersex people are two separate groups with overlapping concerns.

Finally, some cisgender people share some experiences with trans people as mentioned above. For example, butch lesbians might look very similar to trans men who have just begun transition, and face similar kinds of harassment. But butch lesbians are women who like expressing themselves by wearing suits - trans men are men, who live as male and generally hope to be perceived seamlessly as men by society. Trans men are not the same as women who like wearing pants or looking masculine.

Because the world is complex and beautiful: some butch lesbians experience gender dysphoria, take male hormones, or have some surgeries, while identifying as female. In general, I think it's more important to listen to people and offer support than obsessing about who falls into what box; so I guess I don't want to get into debates about who is/is not transgender because lots of people don't neatly make sense in any category. Once you scratch the surface, gender is more complicated than it seems.

Nevertheless, it's generally true that trans people are not the same as drag queens, crossdressers, feminine men, masculine women, or people with a genetic intersex condition.

What is Gender Dysphoria?

Gender dysphoria is a biologically rooted discomfort with being seen as the gender one was assigned at birth and raised in.

No one really knows what causes dysphoria, but it seems to be rooted in nature - rather than nurture. The leading theory is that it is one of many random outcomes that can occur before birth: in the womb, the stages of hormonal development for the brain and the body are different. Perhaps the child's brain develops on the pattern of one gender, and the body on the pattern of a different gender. This leaves the person in an impossible position of having the body produce the wrong hormones for the brain, leading to the gloom of constant chemical imbalance, and a pervasive sense of phantom limbs and body oddness.

Dysphoria can be physical - a discomfort with one's physical characteristics - or social - discomfort when others see you as the wrong gender - and usually a combination of the two. Primarily, it feels extremely weird. Trans people often try and use metaphors like "trapped inside the wrong body", but honestly it's like a fish trying to explain what it's like to have fins. A lot of people who do not experience dysphoria assume it is similar to disliking your size or your thighs, or having extreme body dysmorphia such as anorexia. This definitely looks similar from the outside, but is nevertheless a completely different experience.

The only reliable cure for dysphoria we presently have is allowing someone to transition.

What is non binary?

Non binary trans people identify as neither male nor female. They may identify as both, neither, or something in between - and there are many new words to help people describe themselves better. Some of the most frequently seen are:

  • genderqueer
  • non-binary
  • agender
  • genderfluid. 

Non binary people typically use a neutral pronoun like "they": "Alex went to visit their grandmother today." It's easy once you get used to it - rather like remembering your friend Nicholas would rather be called Nick.

Non binary identities have become more prominent since the 90s, and this is a great thing.

For the first 70 years or so, transition was all or nothing. Transgender people wanting to access medical care had to conform to a very stereotypical image of masculinity and femininity - they had to be straight, and wear very stereotypical clothes. And they had to be willing to undergo every procedure available, and then destroy old photos, cut off all friends, move to a new town, to never tell anyone they had transitioned, and in short - try and pass seamlessly as a cisgender person and not disturb anyone by being too visibly queer.

Non-binary identities give trans people the freedom to listen to their own bodies, and not go through medical procedures they don't want or need. Dysphoria is, as I have said, extremely weird and rarely feels as straightforward as "being in the wrong body" - because brains aren't designed to handle Lovecraftian situations like "what if you think you look like Dirk Bogarde but every time you look down you see the Venus of Willendorf".

They can also be great for people who want to honour their transition, and the fact they have lived as several genders; people who can't afford certain procedures; or people who genuinely feel a lot of mixed messages from their brain, and wish to live authentically.

What is transition?

Transition is any steps trans people take to alleviate their gender dysphoria. Usually, this is making changes so they are no longer seen as the gender they were assigned at birth, and so they can live as their true gender.

Some people have surgeries to change parts of their body. Most will also take cross-gender hormones, which profoundly change your appearance. Finally, most will also transition "socially" - changing their name, clothes, and asking people around them to treat them correctly.

Transition is tough. You can't accurately judge how serious someone is about transition by how many steps they have taken, or by their ability to successfully "pass" as their preferred gender. For example, lower surgery can cost up to $50,000 - the sort of cash few of us have lying around! The idea that you need lower surgery to "become" your true gender is therefore both hurtful and inaccurate. Many transgender people cannot afford all the changes they want; choose not to go for them because they are hoping the techniques will improve in future; or don't need them to feel comfortable in their own skin.

It is polite to treat people as the gender they request, regardless of how much they "look right" or the steps they have taken. It's also generally polite not to ask what transition steps someone is taking: medical questions are an invasion of privacy.

Extra things which often confuse people I couldn't fit anywhere else:

Trans people are as diverse as cisgender people. Some trans men are gay (i.e. they date men), and some trans women are lesbian (i.e. they date women). Some trans men have a feminine look or even perform as drag queens. Some trans women are butch, and like DIY, programming, motorbikes and bow ties.

(I say "some". That's like 80 of the trans women I've ever met. The idea that trans women are super stereotypical OTT feminine in appearance is so inaccurate. Most of them look like Kaylee from Firefly.)

This often strikes people as odd when they learn about trans people for the first time. "What's the point of transitioning from female to male, only to wear women's clothes and date men??". This comes from the idea that trans people are essentially cross-dressers, rather than people who really *are* the gender they transition to, people who ought to have been born with a different gender but for a random trick of fate.

Cisgender men and women have a lot of diversity in how they like to dress - from looking really stereotypical, to being experimental and challenging. This is also true for trans people: most have an average dress style, but some trans women take La Roux and Rachel Maddow as style icons, and some trans men are into Prince and Sylvester.

In the 50s and 60s, trans people who wanted access to medical transition had to pretend they were going to live as straight after transition. For example, a trans man had to be formerly lesbian, and hope to date straight women after his transition. We are fortunate to live in happier times, where there is more acceptance for lesbian, gay and bi people, and where we recognise gender identity is separate to sexual orientation. Lou Sullivan, possibly the first trans man to live as gay, before doctors would even recognise that was a possibility, is an especially cool historic figure.

How do I be a super cool friend to trans people I know and internationally?

Mostly, just use your common sense!

  • Use the name and pronouns people ask you to
  • Don't ask invasive questions about genitalia
  • Don't ask invasive medical questions
  • Don't offer fashion or other gender advice unless solicited
  • Your trans friend is mostly into chatting about board games, neuroscience, fantasy novels, etc - there's more to them than just being Your Trans Friend.
All of these things are already things you know how to do. 

There's also some specific stuff like:
  • Ask whether they are OK with you asking questions about being trans before doing so. I love answering these questions, but many people don't. I'm more fond of answering generic questions than specific ones about me. 
  • Ask who they are "out" to about their transgender status, and don't tell anyone else (I am out to essentially no one in my real life. If you come here from facebook, please respect that)
  • If you use the wrong name or pronoun by accident, apologise in a single word ("sorry!", "ooops!") and then don't do it again. Mistakes happen, but it is the worst when someone takes 5 minutes to apologise. It just stretches the awkwardness. Say sorry, move on.

And then more broadly:

  • Do what you can to encourage friends, and especially children, to be open minded about other people instead of being a bully
  • Stand up for people who you see being harassed or bullied if you are able - in real life and online - and don't make fun of people who have unusual gender presentations yourself
  • You can help trans people and cispeople both by supporting people of different body shapes, sizes and personalities. "Real men do..." and "beautiful women must..." and similar attitudes limit the world for everybody, and make people feel ugly, unhappy, or restricted. 
  • At the ballot box, vote for lawmakers who explicitly support transgender people - and reject ones who make discrimination part of their platform
  • Look for books and movies made by transgender people to learn more (ones about trans people created by cis people are often kinda pants)
  • When something is new or uncomfortable, ask questions and do research and be curious about learning more instead of shutting down new possibilities.
  • Mention that you support transgender people as often as possible, to allow those around you to know you are a friend. If you are an employer, look for ways to become a better workplace for transgender employees. If you are a teacher, for students. And so on.
  • If you have children, empower them to express themselves however they choose - even if that's wearing or playing with the "wrong" things for their gender - and fight their corner if other people try to bully or belittle them. Most gender non conforming kids don't turn out to be transgender, but a little boy who wants to wear princess dresses will grow up kinder and more confident knowing he has your love and support no matter what, than one who is taught something is wrong with him. 
  • If you have children, consider finding an age-appropriate books with LGBT characters - there are everything from picture books to young adult novels out there. Help raise the next generation to be kinder and more understanding of the world around them.

There are several words it's best not to use.

"Transsexual" is an older, more clinical term, and it's best to give it a miss. (Some older trans people will use it, and others like to use it to make a distinction between trans people who are pursuing medical treatments and those who are merely transitioning socially. Using "trans" or "transgender" is your safest bet.)

"Sex change" is likewise seen a lurid and sensational word. "Transition" is preferred.

There's also some words which are mortally offensive and should never be used under any circumstances: shemale, ladyboy, heshe, tranny, t-girl, TS, faggot, probably others I've forgotten.

Don't worry if you forget: if your intent is good, people will understand what you mean. If you're corrected, say sorry and thank you. Which words are ok/not ok is often very debated by trans people, who have different perspectives and experiences with these words; often words are seen differently in different places, or even on a month by month basis. Just try your best and be sincere. 

I want to learn more!

The internet is a great resource. I'm sure I will get messages from other trans people who disagree with my choice of language or my descriptions, because we are a diverse bunch! There are lots of blogs, websites and videos with other perspectives.

Always look for things written by trans people over cis people. Cis authors usually mean well, but don't really get what it's like to be trans - it's such a peculiar, unique experience. Some starter suggestions are:

  • Fiction: Nevada by Imogen Binnie
  • Non-fiction: Whipping Girl by Julia Serano
  • Autobiography: Redefining Realness by Janet Mock
  • Non-binary non-fiction/autobio: Gender Outlaw by Kate Bornstein
  • Film: Tangerine (notable for starring transgender actresses in trans roles)
  • TV: Orange is the New Black; Sense8

So, tell me about yourself?

I am a man who looks like a woman, and it's pretty rubbish.

I am "assigned female at birth", and presently, not taking any medical transition steps. I live as male, use male pronouns with selected loved ones, and never leave my house.

Although I support my transitioning siblings, I'm actually not wild about physical transition myself. It's a lot of invasive and irreversible medical steps, and a period of challenging levels of rejection and danger from loved ones and the wider world - and all in all, I can't face that. Especially because I have no intention of ceasing wearing frocks and dying my hair and, given the violence faced by feminine men, it's far easier to keep wearing what I like on my woman's body and going under the radar. I'm also not sufficiently sure whether it would help, or just result in other sorts of body discomfort. If I could do a magic spell and become Gregory Peck immediately, I would do it in a shot.

Why am I writing this? My interest in making clothes and pretending to be other people stems from body discomfort. Sometimes, it's trying to find a classic femininity which flatters my body and honors it as it is. Sometimes, it's to pretend to be a different person in another time and just get away from what I am. Sometimes, it's to try and get flattering male attire for this body of mine. Sometimes, it's about feeling confident as a man who's really into fashion.

I have a longterm goal to create clothes patterns for transgender bodies, but the more I learn about fitting and pattern cutting, the more I appreciate how huge a task understanding the body in fabric is. In any case, whenever I have patterns for my body I intend to post them for free; and I will post whatever I learn about creating flattering trans wear as I go.

Even though most of my posts are generic enough, some are writing about clothing trans bodies - you're welcome to read them, and if you run a fashion business, encouraged to. Or you can ignore them.



Anyway. I hope this was helpful to some readers and helped give a bit of insight into the person behind the blog, and maybe you learnt some things. Even though this is a tailoring blog, you are welcome to ask any questions in a comment and I'll periodically answer them in a big post. 

Comments

Popular Posts